Aconcagua & the Southern Andes
by Jim Ryan

Aconcagua and the Southern Andes is a practical and experience-driven account of climbing in South America’s highest mountain range, written by an alpinist who clearly knows the terrain first-hand. Jim Ryan focuses on Aconcagua as the centrepiece, but places it firmly within the wider context of the Southern Andes, giving readers a grounded understanding of how the region’s geography, climate, and altitude shape the climbing experience. Rather than romanticising the mountain, the book presents Aconcagua as a serious high-altitude objective whose challenges stem as much from weather and logistics as from technical difficulty.

A major strength of the book is its emphasis on preparation and decision-making. Ryan discusses routes, acclimatisation strategies, seasonal considerations, and common causes of failure, drawing on real scenarios rather than abstract theory. He also addresses the realities of expedition life in Argentina: permits, approach marches, base camp routines, and the often underestimated impact of wind, cold, and altitude illness. This makes the book especially useful for climbers transitioning from lower peaks to their first very high mountain.

Beyond Aconcagua itself, the book broadens its scope to other peaks and regions in the Southern Andes, highlighting the variety of climbing available and the differences between commercial expeditions and more independent objectives. The tone is informative and unsentimental, aimed at helping readers assess whether these mountains are right for them. As a result, Aconcagua and the Southern Andes works both as a guide and a reality check—ideal for climbers seeking a clear-eyed understanding of what high-altitude mountaineering in South America actually involves.